Milan during the ‘80s: to dominate the panorama of Italian fashion, and not only, are names such as those of Giorgio Armani, Emilio Pucci, Rodolfo Valentino and the one of Mariuccia Mandelli. With her brand Krizia, which name in Ancient Greek means “Vanity”, a term used also by Plato as the title of his dialogue, she rewrote the rules of Pret-a-Porter, helping to make the Italian excellence famous all over the world. Bought in 2014 by the Chinese businesswoman Zhu Chongyun, today the brand has set the goal of combining the tradition and the qualities that characterize it to the creativity of the contemporary.
“Krizia Now. Looking Back. Going forward. ” Was the title of a celebratory exhibition of the work of the designer (held in 2014), but these words also perfectly describe the mood of this fashion show: the woman celebrated by Krizia is strong, able and focused on her goals, but at the same time she loves to dare and to have fun when there is the opportunity.
What kind of woman are you?
Aware of the current trend that sees the ‘80s as protagonists (take Stranger things as an example), she is also a woman who loves padded shoulder, animals’ prints and blouses, all elements that are present in this collection F/W 2018.
Here we find the formal suits, the wide coats, the oversize sweaters that leave the shoulders uncovered and the clothes with transparencies: the idea of comfort, confidence, and femininity transpires from the beginning to the end of the fashion show, following those same aims that were at the base of the work of Mariuccia.
The motifs used by Antonio D’Anna, the creative director of the brand from three years, are hypnotic and artistic: white, grey and black lines, geometrical chess, classical ornamental motifs and drawings of animals. The fashion show seems almost divided into two parts, as in the first one there are extremely detailed looks while in the second one there is space for monochromatic and essential creations.
The colors create a chaotic sequence that ranges from black to red and to the white, then crossing the brown, grey and once again the black: fabrics in paint, wool, pleats, and fur composed the garments designed for the woman of 2018, aware of her past but impatient to discover what the future will make her live, without ever giving up the simplicity and the elegance that make her unique.
Mariuccia said that “everyone has to dress as he likes, that’s the only way trough which the dress can become a second skin”: D’Anna’s potential to pay homage to this ideal is evident, as well as the desire to establish a bond with the past; however, after the relaunch of the brand in the last seasons, we expect at the same time even more innovation, even more energy and even more beauty able to make us say “Krizia has returned, or rather, is reborn.”
Credit Images: The Italian Rêve.