A few weeks ago we had the pleasure to interview Luigi Tomio about his career and his steps as Estée Lauder’s Global Pro make-up artist. But today he will show us how to make a cold makeup look on the eyes, explaining to us not only how much we can have fun with these colors but how much more impactful the lunar shades can be, compared to the warm solar ones that we all know very well and which we prefer for an everyday look.
But not only: imagine the experience that a master like Luigi Tomio has learned on 30 years in Estée Lauder and think of all the things you would like to ask him. So we have done it, following him step by step for this look and discovering all his little tricks, that can be “life-changing” for all beauty addicts or for those who wear make-up every day!
I found myself, especially at the beginning, working on television and on photographic sets and I was often curious to know how the makeup performed under the lights, but you can’t always bother the photographers; at the same time, I have found that the binoculars allow you to capture your work and to see how makeup behaves even at far distances. It’s useful on set but also in beauty in general: if I stare at you like this, I see very well everything I’ve done, but if I look at you with the binoculars I have an intimate vision that allows me to see how the makeup is performing. It’s perfect to use them mainly on set, where you always need to see how makeup develops with the scene, and also to be sure we have achieved the desired result.
Among the many techniques I have defined, there is the one of the compass which involves working from behind: if, for example, you have to outline the lip contour, from the front you will never have the perfect vision of the farthest point you can reach. Whereas, if you work from behind, you see exactly until the point where you can stretch. You have a sharper line, this way, and the same goes for the eyes: it’s a technique that makes the work much easier.
The first thing to do is to highlight the starting color, and with I-Match we are able to find the right shade. When we speak of “right color,” it’s not only about the intensity but also about the undertone. After finding the perfect color, we found the right Double Wear foundation, which we applied with the “Flower Foundation” technique, applying the layers of foundation on the face in a way that mimic a flower’s petal from the center of the face to get better uniformity.
THE “ERASE STRESS” TECHNIQUE
After the base, we focused on the Advanced Night Repair Supercharged Complex for the eyes, mixing it with a little bit of Double Wear Concealer, blending the products together and adapting them perfectly to the delicate area around the eyes, to hide fatigue, without however putting too much and avoiding the typical stratification of the concealer. Mixing the two together makes the application easier and adds a better-staying power to the makeup.
On all the face I spread a few drops of Advanced Night Repair Serum and dabbing them on the face gives the possibility to provide hydration, which makes the skin fresh and restores makeup. We also use it between one fashion show and another; it’s like finding yourself with a new makeup, and it also allows you to apply other products very easily. The gel formula doesn’t move what had been applied before.
I start off by blending a veil of Double Wear Brush-On Glow BB Highlighter, which is a pen highlighter, on the whole upper eyelid, and immediately after I draw a line with the pencil (in this case, a beautiful black): it makes it much easier to blend the product. I sometimes see pencils with traits that are too strong, too defined. I believe that more and more we need to find innovative formulas that lead to achieving the same effect without wasting time and without torturing that delicate area too much.
The highlighter allows you to blend the pigment of the pencil smoothly and, in the very moment when the highlighter dries on the eyelid, it will give you also a sense of stability.
After preparing this base, we blended on top an Eyeshadow Paint, which added a color more suitable to the iris – in this case, green – and you should never skip mascara.
The right attention should always be given to the eyebrows with this pencil, The Brow Multitasker, which has a pencil on one side (to define the eyebrows), and on the other has a powder which softens the look without that “fake effect”.
HIGHLIGHT AND SCULPT TECHNIQUE
With the Bronze Goddess Powder, we recreated the E of Estée Lauder on the external part of the face starting from the forehead, sculpting the cheekbone and slightly refining the contour, thus creating the right forms. I did the same E, upside down, with the Double Wear Brush-On Glow BB Highlighter: it allows to give the right effect of light that, combined with the bronzer, creates the right balance.
The lips were immediately hydrated to see the contour. Don’t underestimate this technique because, this way, it’s possible to reactivate the lips’ collagen and it’s possible to have more confidence and it’s possible to achieve a more definition. Another technique is to dip the tip of the pencil into the lipstick that I am going to use: it will be more smooth and will not leave a mark that’s too defined.
THE FINISHING TOUCH
In the highest points of the face, we used the Revitalizing Supreme + Global Anti-Aging Wake Up Balm, a brilliant product that, being a balm, can go above any cream and it moisturizes the driest areas. Therefore, it gives a glowy effect but also provides more elasticity on the skin.